Christmas is always the most anticipated time of the year. Moreover if this time happens to be a holiday in Venice, then it’s simply glorious and magical.
Here in UK we have a very close knit community of few families. Most of us have kids of almost the same age and for the past few years, we all happen to spend Christmas and holidays together for a couple of days. Initially it used to be within the UK only but Venice was our first foreign holiday together.
Flying out
With a total of six families and individual head count of 21, it was adventure and chaotic in a funny way right from Gatwick airport. It’s always fun window shopping with girlfriends, eavesdropping over seven year old’s conversations and listening to their secret plans of sitting together in the plane and sleeping together for the whole of the holiday.
Arriving
After reaching Marco polo airport and breezing past all the formalities, we had two high speed watertaxies waiting for our party. We requested the apartment managenent to book them for us. They charged us 120 Euros (for 4 people) per taxi. The boats were very nice, luxurious and very well maintained. The driver helped us all with the luggage. The thrilling journey took nearly 30 minutes.
We were staying at this gorgeous property sprawled over three floors. We booked it through Truly Venice website. There was ample space for each one of us and it was tastefully decorated as well. All the basic amenities were nearby and we were literally in the centre of all the action. It was self catering property but it was fully loaded pizzas for us for the first meal of the day which we ordered from a pizzeria nearby.
For the first day we all just settled in, made ourselves home and let the kids do their own things. Along with my favourite people around me, I simply love endless cups of tea and chitchat. Though the boys did venture out to have a look around after dinnertime and click some night shots of the beautifully lit city, us ladies had an early night.
What to expect !!!
Christmas time in Venice is usually cold, wet and gorgeous. We were expecting less crowd than our previous visit in summers but still it was surprisingly busy. There is midnight mass at Piazza San Marco which is marvellous. There is always a risk of Acqua Alta, so do come prepared in that scenario (Acqua Alta means high water. When the water levels get high in Venetian lagoon, it leads to flooding). The whole city is lit up with beautiful lights and decorations. There are a variety of musical concerts going on in the city. It’s a particularly perfect time to visit art galleries and museums as the crowds are relatively less. In winters the days are relatively shorter but it gives you a chance to explore the illuminating city at night. In December the average temperature in Venice is: 46°F high and 33°F low. Hopefully it will give you an idea what to pack.
First Day
Normally we all used to get up around the same time. After the usual tea and breakfast ritual, we all used to embark on sightseeing. You know how it is like with such a large group including kids, along with numerous photo and selfie sessions, we did manage to reach Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square). It was just 8-10 mins walk away from the place we were renting. Kids were happy to chase pigeons, who in turn were greedily eyeing up breads from people sitting outside cafes. During this visit I realised that pigeons along with a whole gang of seagulls were in fact quite aggressive. They were attacking and snatching away sandwiches from poor kids’ hands. It was scary and funny at the same time. It did of course make us realise to have lunch indoors. The canals were a bit misty and foggy but it looked lovely. It was such a stark contrast to the Venice of August. The day was sunny, crisp and clear. We walked at our own pace, looking at the lovely christmas window displays.
We didn’t let the cold weather dampen our plan of riding Gondolas. Plus they have warm blankets ready and waiting for you. It was a beautiful experience floating on the less crowded waterways. We had a lovely late lunch near Rialto bridge. As the evening was approaching, it was getting chilly. Few of us went for some retail therapy and others went back to the apartment.
Verona Day Trip
Having decided the previous night that we will head to Verona, we all were ready to catch the train from St Lucia right on time. The train ride was quite fun with most of the compartment almost empty. The walk from the train station to the city centre was around 20 minutes.
Our first stop of excursion was the Verona Arena. It is an amazing first century amphitheatre. Nowadays it is internationally famous for hosting big concerts and opera performances. We spent quite a lot of time enjoying the view from the top and just randomly climbing stairs.
I’m a bit embarrassed to admit that most of our time that day was consumed in lunch. Finding a restaurant for such a large party was a herculean task. In the end we did manage to find one and the food was great too. The city came alive when it was dusk time and it got quite busy too. The christmas market was glorious and the streets were full of shoppers. The whole atmosphere was breathtaking.
Local Ramblings
We had a late start the next day. Just shopping and eating were on card that day. Simply soaking in the evening atmosphere at Piazza San Marco was splendid. After dinner we went on to attend this amazing musical concert by Interpreti Veneziani. It was a memorable experience to witness these talented musicians playing.
That late night stroll in the Saint Mark’s square, along the waterfront is still so vivid in our memory. It truly was romantic and ethereal. No wonder San Marco is called “Living room of Europe”.
San Marco Basilica
Our last full day was dark, wet and gloomy. First we went to see San Marco Basilica from inside. The lines were not very long and we purchased the tickets from there only. It was priced at 3 Euro per person. Under five goes free. It is the main church of Venice. Almost all the important events are organised here only. The Italo- Byzantine architecture of the Basilica is truly spectacular. Unfortunately, they do not allow to take picktures inside the church. The view from the top was striking and we managed to take few pictures from there.
Buzz of Burano
As the day was still wet and damp, rather than going back to our apartment, we decided to hop to the island of Burano. We boarded the ferry from the Piazza itself. Burano was quiet, serene and dreamy. It is an old fishing town consisting of bold and colourful houses. It’s said the natives paint their houses bright and cheery so that they are easy to find in fog and mist. Burano is also famous for its renowned delicate lace. The real Burano lace is usually quite expensive.
Finally..
We had a flight to catch the next day but it was late in the evening. There was still heavy downpour. So everyone just finished their last minute shopping and set for the airport.
Venice is truly mesmerising in the winters. We know Venice is not quite famous as a winter/christmas destination like Austria and Germany but believe us, it’s an incredible winter destination. As it’s always being said, “Venice is like a love affair, you don’t want it to end”. We are always eager to come back to the stunning city of canals.
Some Winter Tips
- Dress up in layers – We always find dressing up in layers is the best way to combat cold. Fleece lined leggings or thermals are must haves for us. We love the ones available in Marks and Spencers in UK.
- Cosy headgear and warm/ waterproof coat – The winds in Venice could get chilly and blustery at times. A warm cap will be a life saver. As the winters are usually wet, a warm waterproof coat will be your most worn clothing item. You can bring your woolen coat too for sunny days. A pair of gloves can be added to the list too.
- Comfortable footwear – Needless to say you will be spending a lot of time walking around the city and canals, so comfortable shoes are your best bets (waterproof the better)
- Use Vaporetti/ Water taxis– Venice is a perfect walkable city. But if in any case walking is not an option, you can easily rely on water taxis. They cover the whole of Venice and operate in all kinds of weather. One ticket will cost you 7.50 Euros.
- Pack hydrating moisturisers – A personal tip for extra dry skin peeps like me. Skin feels extra dry and chapped in the cold winds, any hydrating moisturiser and lip balm in your handbag will always come handy.
- Shop your heart out – Venice is an amazing place for some retail therapy. Whether you are after some luxury goods or some local goods and souvenirs, Venice has enough options. Most popular are the glass goods and items from Murano. Burano is famous for exquisite lace.
- Attend Midnight mass at San Marco – Just before midnight you will hear bells from Piazza San Marco calling everyone to attend the midnight mass. We could not secure seat inside as they were full. But even from outside you could feel the positivity and energy of what was going inside.
Hope these tips will come handy in some way. We are sure the winter magic of Venice will work its charm on you and connect to your Yugen Vibes xx
